Minwax Satin Polyurethane Spray Finish Review on Gunstocks

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Howdy-
Wanted to put this out where more eyes could run across it.

What would exist the better type of terminate to put on a stock?

I see the oils, (birchwood casey, tung, linseed) and I expect at the polyurethanes. Wanted to know what would be best for a nice protective gloss on a rifle stock?

I was leaning towards polyurethane. Any reasons to not?
Oil finishes are much easier to repair if y'all impairment "scratch" the terminate. Poly finish not and so much, in fact very hard compared to to a rub on oil cease.
I'd stay away from a boiled linseed oil terminate, doesn't requite much protection from moisture and takes forever to dry. I've simply finished staining and finishing new stocks for our American Legion Color Guard. Because of lack of room I'm only able to do 2 stocks at a time. I'm using MinWax stain chosen Gunstock #231, and for a cease MinWax Antique Oil Finish. The Antique Finish is applied in the same matter as Tru-Oil and is much the aforementioned. I only utilize 3 coats as we exercise not want a brilliant shiny end, however thats easily possible with a couple of extra coats. Whatever way from staining to end they are all washed in two to 3 days. First-class moisture resistance and very piece of cake to do. Tru-Oil is simply equally skillful I just use the MinWax as its cheaper in the quart size.

With the in a higher place method you tin get a terminate from almost flat to very high gloss, y'all just stop when the gloss is what you desire.

I have no feel with Tung Oil, henceforth no comment.

Remember if you use Poly and scratch information technology, its almost a sand downwards and starting time over.
tru oil is easy to utilise and looks awesome!!
I vote Tru-oil besides but I have used (and similar very much) Brownell'south Professional person Finish,it is a Polyurethane/oil blend. It is a fantastic,hard cease. It can exist very glossy or (as I exercise) softened with a felt pad and rottenstone for a satin terminate.
I merely did my starting time stock refinishing job a few weeks ago on a Mosin and I used MinWax satin poly (the paint on stuff, not wipe on). Possibly I'm just incompetent but I had a pretty difficult time getting the poly to continue evenly. The stock ended up looking ok after some quality time with 0000 steel wool but I would probably try something else if I were to practise it again. A wipe on oil seems like it would be much easier to utilize.
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Sandpaper, steelwool and Tru-Oil:
I recently refinished an old Romanian SKS. I thought it would exist a practiced gun to practice on. It turned out really well. I used Minwax from home depot. There is a finish chosen "gunstock" and I liked to look of information technology and then that is what I went with. I fine sanded the entire stock. Wiped it down with mineral spirits and stained it twice. Then ii coats of polyurethane. Looks great.
I have seen other stocks rubbed down with tung oil then coated with polyurethane and they look real prissy also. At that place are several ways to go about refinishing a stock.
I did my mosin with danish oil for the base of operations coat and and then wipe on poly for the protection. It took 3 weeks to complete
2 hours to do the stain, A week to "dry" and the about 5 days of 2 coats, very very thin coats of wipe on ploy. I let it curre for another week.
It is nice.
I would hazzard to say that what your want to do with this gun should dictate the finish you want to employ. If this is a gun that you will be using difficult and exposing to the elements, then I would suggest a good polyurethane or even epoxy resin. If this is i you want to infant and accept looking good when yous take information technology to the range, I would advise some of the nice oil finishes, I am a big fan of Danish oil. If you want a truck gun, that will run across some bumps and bruises, I might suggest a boiled linseed oi/beeswax concoction. The nice thing virtually this is when yous get scratches or rubs, you can usually vitrify them out easily and if they get real bad, yous tin can reapply hands, and with great results. The linseed/beeswax combo is besides nice because you can buff information technology to an astonishing sheen, or rough information technology to a low luster satin finish.
Don't underestimate the toughness of properly practical oil.
Don't underestimate the toughness of properly applied oil.
And the ease of repair in example the iinevitable actually does happen.

I've noticed alot of comments about Tru-Oil, it very good stuff, the Antique Oil Finish is virtually the same and is applied the same way. But available in qt. cans instead of little bottles. And I may add more than reasonable priced.
I've refinished two Mauser stocks myself. The first was with Tru-oil, and the second with Tung oil I got at domicile Depot. Looks similar the quality of the finish was about the same, but in all honesty, the Tru-oil was so pretty I always show off that one outset.
thats a adept looking 37 bushmaster, how much work was it to take off the old finish? I got ii 37'southward that i'k thinking about doing this to